Frequently Asked Questions

A: Sod calculations are based on Square Footage (Length x Width). A measuring wheel is the best and most accurate way to measure the total Sqft for the area you're working with.

Always make sure your wheel is calibrated correctly per 1ft. and reset to 0ft. before starting any measurements.

For square/ rectangular shaped areas: measure a straight line directly down center of shape for both your Width and Length measurement. Multiply those 2 measurements together for your Sqft.

If you measure with inches, you will have to divide those measurements by 12 (12 inches = 1 foot) and then multiply length x width for your total Sqft.

You can also call us with your measurements and we can do the math for you.

A: To place an order means to pay for an order. 

Delivery; all orders must be placed with at least 24 hours notice by 4:00pm the day before. NOTE we do not make same day deliveries. It's preferred to place delivery orders with 48+ hours notice so we can guarantee you a spot on the delivery schedule for when you need it. 

For pickup; it is highly recommended to prepay for any pickup orders at least 24 hours in advance in order for us to reserve the order.

If you plan to pay at pickup, we cannot guarantee we will have what you need, as we need payment to hold anything. 

You may pay for an order over the phone, or stop in and pay. We accept cash and all major credit cards excluding AMEX (American Express). We do not accept Business or Personal checks at this time. 

A: Mulch calculations are based on total area Square footage with Depth. 

First you will need to measure the area to find your total Square Footage (Length x Width), then divide by 108 (1 cubic yard of mulch covers approximately 108 sqft at 3 inches depth). Automatically you will have your needed mulch (In cubic yards) for 3 inch thickness. Then to find how many bags you need, divide by 9 (9 bags that are 3 cuft = 1 cubic yard @ 3 inch Depth).

3 inch Depth is standard for new mulch installation. 

1-2 inch Depth is standard for a top off or refresh (Usually done every year or two for colored mulch).

You can also call us with your measurements and we can do the math for you.

A: For the first 20 days or until sod takes root, water once every morning between 4am - 9am. For the next 10 - 14 days, cut the watering back to every other day. After the 4th/5th week, you're sod should be rooted, ready to mow, and ready to go on the normal watering cycle per your county regulations.

You want to be between 1/2 - 3/4 inch of water per zone. 

A: The best time to water your lawn whether it's existing or newly installed, is in the early morning hours. Watering during the day wastes water to excessive evaporation as well as can scorch the blades. Watering in late afternoon or late morning may be detrimental if it extends the time the lawn is naturally wet from dew. This extended "dew period" can accelerate disease occurrence.

A: Even with a professionally installed irrigation system, it is important to check your coverage regularly because heads may become clogged, damaged, or off-center, and leaks in the line may occur. 

An easy way to check the coverage and uniformity of your irrigation system is to place small, straight-sided cans (I.e. 5oz. tuna cans) in a straight line from your sprinkler head to the edge of the watering pattern. 

Run the system for 15 minutes and check to see if you have about equal amounts of water in each can. If an area is not receiving water from one or more heads, or if a head is not providing complete coverage, dry spots can develop. This can lead to any of the problems associated with drought-stress. While checking uniformity with the "catch can" method, you can also easily determine how long it takes your system to apply ½ to ¾ inch of water (Which is standard to your normal watering cycle). Measure the amount of water in the cans after running the system for 15 minutes. 

If, after 15 minutes, you have ¼" of water, it would take 30 to 45 minutes to apply the correct amount of water through your irrigation system.  

While checking for damaged sprinkler heads, replace any that are leaking or not providing uniform coverage. Also, check to ensure that valves open and close properly.

A: Once established, Bahia grass will let you know when rainfall is coming up short and it needs to be watered by turning a bluish-gray color and looking wilted (laying over).

When watering is called for, you should deliver up to, usually no more than,  one inch of water - wetting the soil to a depth of eight inches.

Because Bahia grass forms an extensive root system,  it has better drought tolerance than other Florida grasses.

A: St. Augustine grass is reluctant to go dormant in the mild winters we usually have here in Central Florida. It's typical for St. Augustine lawns to stay partially green through the winter in Central and South Florida regions.

However; St. Augustine grass goes dormant when soil temperatures dip down to 55℉ and below.

During dormancy, St. Augustine grass will cease growing almost completely and aboveground growth will turn brown. In very warm regions, such as South Florida, St. Augustine grass may remain green all year round, never entering dormancy.

A: Today's half-ton pickups are capable of hauling more than 1000 pounds (1/2 ton). We have successfully loaded many half-ton trucks with one pallet of sod (approximately 2000-2500 pounds depending on if it's wet or dry). However; we do not recommend carrying more than 1 pallet in a half-ton truck.

A: If you observe closely, you will notice that in an attempt to conserve water, the leaf blades of most grasses fold in half lengthwise. Lawns tend to lose their bright, vibrant green color the longer they suffer the effects of drought. Heat and drought work together to dehydrate our landscapes, making it difficult to keep up with the watering needs of your lawn. One indicator that you need to change your irrigation schedule comes in the form of footprints. Dehydrated plants (Sod is considered a "plant") lose elasticity, so footprints last from several minutes to several hours after they’re made.

A: Heat stress can be detrimental to your Florida lawn. Disease, insect infestation, and weed infestation are more prevalent when the weather stays hot for a significant period of time. 

You can do a quick check to determine if the heat’s impact is becoming troublesome by looking for gaps in between the sidewalk or driveway and your lawn. 

Heat causes water to evaporate more quickly, which in turn causes soil to become more compact, causing gaps.

A: Lawns that are kept on the same irrigation schedule year-round are not automatically healthier than lawns watered on an as-needed basis. In fact, failing to take environmental conditions like heat and rainfall into consideration can hurt your lawn. 

Too much or too little water can impact plant root development and leave the lawn unable to cope with changes. 

Not taking the amount of daylight and heat into consideration means you’ll likely end up with a dehydrated lawn. 

Leaving the irrigation system on during rainy periods brings a different slew of problems from root rot to fungus overgrowth.

A: Grass roots need air, water and nutrients to grow thick, deep and strong. when your soil becomes even slightly compacted, it inhibits the flow of those essentials that support thicker, healthier turf growth. A layer of compacted soil just 1/4 to 1/2 inches thick can make a significant difference in the health and beauty of your lawn.

Aeration creates holes down into the soil to alleviate compaction so air, water and nutrients can reach the roots.  Deprived of their basic needs by compacted soil, lawn grasses struggle in stressful situations, such as heat and low rainfall, and lose their healthy, rich color. 

Grasses gradually thin and eventually die out completely, for lack of the oxygen, water and nutrients available just inches away. 

Even a single aeration session can open the avenue for these essentials to reach their mark and put your lawn back on an upward trend.

When you should aerate depends on whether it's warm or cool season grass. 

For cool season grasses: early spring or fall (I.e. Kentucky Bluegrass, Perennial Ryegrass, Fine Fescue, Tall Fescue, etc.)

For warm season grasses: late spring through early summer (I.e.  Bahia grass, St. Augustine grass, Zoysia grass, Bermudagrass, etc.)

A:

Pros.

1. Material that biodegrades and returns to the earth.
2. Low energy is consumed as it is a byproduct of wood processing.
3. Bark mulch (Pine Bark) is relatively inert and decays slowly, conserving soil nutrients. 
4. Non-toxic iron oxide and carbon black dyes are typically used for color. Additional colors are often achieved through the use of vegetable-based dyes.

Cons.

1. Material biodegrades relatively quickly and needs to be replaced every year or two as it decomposes or washes away during heavy rain fall.
2. Decomposition removes nitrogen nutrients from the soil.
3. It can potentially "mat down" and form a barrier against water and airflow for surrounding plants in the same area.
4. Recycled wood mulch may contain toxic arsenic or creosote from treated lumber waste if wood sorting was insufficient.